There is one ingredient in skincare that dermatologists worldwide consider the gold standard against skin ageing. Not a trend that will vanish next season, but a molecule backed by decades of scientific research. We are talking about retinol.
But retinol also has a reputation. Flaking skin, redness, irritation - the so-called 'retinol purge' scares many people off before they have even properly started. A shame, because with the right approach, those side effects can be largely avoided.
What is retinol and how does it work?
Retinol is a form of vitamin A. In your skin, it is converted into retinoic acid, the active form that actually affects your skin cells. This process happens in steps: retinol becomes retinaldehyde, then retinoic acid.
What makes retinoic acid so special? It influences almost every aspect of your skin:
- Cell renewal - It accelerates the turnover of skin cells. Old, dead cells are shed faster and new cells reach the surface more quickly. The result: smoother, more radiant skin.
- Collagen production - Retinol stimulates collagen synthesis, the protein that keeps your skin firm and plump. From age 25, collagen production drops by about 1% per year. Retinol can slow that process.
- Pigment regulation - It inhibits melanocyte activity, helping to reduce dark spots and uneven skin tone.
- Anti-acne action - By promoting cell renewal and regulating sebum production, retinol also helps against acne and clogged pores.
The retinol family: not all forms are equal
Retinyl esters
The gentlest form. Ideal for beginners or very sensitive skin.
Retinol
The most common form in cosmetics. A good balance between effectiveness and tolerability.
Retinaldehyde
One step closer to the active form. For those already accustomed to retinol who want more results.
Tretinoin (retinoic acid)
The active form itself. Prescription only. The most powerful but also the most irritating.
How to start: the build-up schedule
Weeks 1-2: Introduction
Use retinol just once a week, in the evening. Apply your moisturiser first, wait a few minutes, then apply retinol. This 'buffering' method reduces direct contact and irritation.
Weeks 3-4: Building up
Increase to twice a week. Watch for signals from your skin.
Month 2: Accelerating
Move to three times a week, then every other day.
Month 3 onwards: Daily
If your skin tolerates it well, you can switch to daily use.
The five golden rules of retinol
1. Always in the evening
Retinol is broken down by UV light. Always use it in your evening routine.
2. Sun protection is not optional
Retinol makes your skin more sensitive to the sun. A good SPF 50 is absolutely essential - every day, even when cloudy. Belgian online pharmacies like Viata and Farmaline carry a wide range of pharmacy-brand sunscreens.
3. Less is more
A pea-sized amount is enough for your entire face.
4. Do not combine with certain actives
Avoid retinol on the same evening as AHAs, BHAs or high-concentration vitamin C.
5. Patience
Retinol is a marathon, not a sprint. First real results appear after 8 to 12 weeks of consistent use.
The retinol purge: what is normal?
In the first weeks, your skin may seem to get worse. Small breakouts, some flaking, dryness. This is the infamous 'purge' - your skin is renewing faster than normal and bringing impurities to the surface more quickly.
This is normal and will pass. But there is a difference between a purge and an allergic reaction:
- Purge: Breakouts in usual spots, mild dryness, flaking. Resolves within 4-6 weeks.
- Reaction: Redness, swelling, burning, rash in unusual areas. Stop immediately and consult your dermatologist.
Retinol at the Belgian pharmacy
Belgian online pharmacies are an excellent place to buy retinol products. Brands like La Roche-Posay, Avène, Vichy and Uriage all offer retinol-containing products, and prices can differ significantly between pharmacies.
At Medi-Market, Viata and Farmaline you will find a wide assortment. It pays to compare prices before ordering - for some products, the difference easily reaches 10 to 20 euros.
Compare prices on PharmaCompare for your favourite skincare brands and discover which Belgian pharmacy offers the best price.
FAQ
Can I use retinol during pregnancy? No. Retinol and all forms of vitamin A are not recommended during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Consult your doctor for alternatives such as bakuchiol.
From what age should you start? From your mid-twenties as prevention. But retinol is effective at any age - it is never too late to start.
Can I use retinol around my eyes? Yes, but be careful. The skin around your eyes is thinner and more sensitive.
Conclusion
Retinol is the best-researched anti-ageing ingredient available without prescription. With the right build-up, good sun protection and a little patience, it can transform your skin.
Looking for retinol products from pharmacy brands? Compare prices on PharmaCompare and find the best deal at Belgian online pharmacies.
Source attribution: inspired by The French Pharmacy Blog